During our recent travels in East Timor conducting motorcycle adventure tours and small group tours community tours we have witnessed peace, stability and the emergence of economic development, owed in no small part to the ongoing work of these Australians. Now its time to celebrate and share.

There are many stories to be told about the last 10 years  and the experiences of those involved.

At Timor Adventure tours we woud love to hear these stories and know others share our  interest.  Here is your opportunity to share the funny, sad, inspiring memories you have from your time spent on tour in East Timor.

Remember this is a celebration, a celebration of a job well done and the courage and pride of a nation.

Meeting the staff of Alola and handing over the keys to the “Aurora Timor” A motorbike
donated by the crew of the Icebreaker “Aurora Australis” to assist the maternal
and child health team in Baucau in their work.

Spending time with the women of CTKSD (C0-operative, tias, culture, sustainable development) in Los Palos, seeing how traditional weaving is done and making new friends.

Being treated to a traditional Timorese feast by the Alola team in Baucau and learning
about their work with women and children. Papaya flowers – a new taste sensation
for Marita, who is trying to find out where she can buy some in country
Victoria.

Handing over some toys and books to the parents, children and babies who were waiting
patiently for us at the newborn family centre at the hospital in Baucau.

Being serenaded and treated to an impromptu concert by our hosts at Tutula beach after performing synchronised swimming Ester Williams style at Jaco Island.

Meeting Nelson and his family in Ossu and being treated once again to a traditional feast
and learning about the work of the Friendship House and the support it receives
from the Willoughby Shire Council in NSW.

Luxuriating in the cool, clear waters of the river at Loi Huna followed by G&T’s on the
balcony while finding out about the sustainable development work Barry and his
team are carrying out at the Timor Village Lodge. And yes, another traditional
feast graciously prepared at very short notice by Mana Elsa Paulina in her home
in the village, (with a little help from her sister and neighbours). Elsa also
conducts cooking classes.

Crossing the South coast without dropping the bike once, including a river crossing where
Wayne the intrepid camera man got just a little too close to mana Vanna and her
mighty megapro!

Discovering that in Same even the darkest guest house has warm hospitality and great food
abounds. I am glad we stayed at this guest house. But beware the beds are not
build for frisky nuptials of the nearly 60 year olds!

The hills on the way to Maubisse were alive with siren songs from the sound of music; high
on the hill was a 60 year old gitter! Oh my god a view to die for.

Having a stunt double to ride the really tricky bits, my lumbar spine and kidneys say
thank you Dave, you are more than just a pretty sound man I don’t care what
Marita says!

Curried egg rolls and Timorese coffee in a dry river bed – just yummy!

Mastering the roller coaster from Maliana to Bobonaro, suddenly on top of the world,
looking down on creation – this really is God’s own country.

Finally making it to Atsabe and being greeted by the kids and the warm hospitality of
mana Natalia and the women’s group. Finding out I can no longer use a Knitting Nancy
but it doesn’t matter because mana Leanora is accomplished in the art of
crochet but is too polite to say so! Some of the most beautiful work I have
seen. Can’t wait to come back and stay in the guest house when it’s finished.

Mana Vanna stepping off the ‘curb’ into the soup at Leta Faho – she was a tad exhausted
and punch drunk after 5 hours of bone shattering riding.

Shopping at the market in Gleno – all the ginger lollies you can eat for under a dollar.

Winding up and down the fun curvy bits to Dare and some time to reflect at the memorial
devoted to the Sparrow force and their Timorese helpers.

Dili traffic, crazy with a logic of its own, a cacophony of sounds, smells and
movement.

The exhilaration of realising I had just ridden 1000km and could now ride any road –
just so proud of myself.

Good company, lots of laughter, challenges, new friends and jaw dropping natural
beauty.

Thankyou East Timor, when can we do it all again?

Basically the Mega Pro is a 160cc four stroke single, with a four speed gear box, and disc brake front/drum brake rear. They are a street bike, made in Indonesia, and so prolific in Timor Leste that you can buy common parts for them at the local “general store”.

Not that we used the Mega Pros as “street bikes”, since the “highways” of Timor Leste (TL) included some of the most challenging roads that I (as a freeway/tourer rider) have ridden. The bikes coped with river crossings, deep mud bogs, steep rocky descents, narrow washouts, kilometres of teeth rattling corrugations, pot holes that were deserving of their own post codes, and unavoidable trenches that threatened to buckle wheels. They ran from wave lapped beaches to cloud engulfed high mountain passes, on petrol poured by “bowser attendants” from drink bottles and strained through cloth filters. They ducked and weaved through wandering livestock and avoided incident with the overloaded passenger trucks and convoys of charging United Nations vehicles. There were of course good stretches, and evidence of considerable foreign aid (particularly from the Japanese) being put into bridge and road building, but at times the packhorses we came across seemed much better suited to the terrain.

Some of the seeming traffic chaos was given a new perspective, when a TL posted AFP officer (and absentee truffle farmer from Burra) advised towards the end of the trip, that the road rule was to “give way to the left” – woops !!
Yet apart from the odd minor tumble (not, thankfully, by me) the only real issues were punctures. The robust yet light weigh construction of the bikes and the small engine sizes were ideal to the task, giving a cruising speed of about 60 kmph: where any faster would have been dangerous; any heavier tedious; and any less nimble risky amongst the obstructions, trucks, livestock and UN 4WDs. Even those in the tour group more accustomed to powerful off-road mounts seemed satisfied with the Mega Pro’s capabilities and performance, and their grins were testament to them enjoying the ride.
 
Having indicated that I found the riding challenging, that didn’t seem to be the case for the locals – who were carrying whole families and huge loads on similar bikes with apparent ease. They earned my admiration, but not just for their riding skills – they are a nice people and as a near neighbour are deserving of much greater consideration, respect, and generosity of spirit from our politicians (past and present). The country still bears the scars of its violent recent history, but they are trying hard with their limited resources.
As a tour it was well worth doing, and organised much the same as the others I’ve undertaken: experienced tour leader; local guide/mechanic; backup vehicle; all inclusive of accommodation, bike hire, food and petrol. Good initiatives were the provision of tank bags, large format daily tour maps, phrase books, and mobile phones. Not five star, but comfortable and with plenty to eat (including some memorable feasts). The coffee and beer were excellent – the Portuguese reds sometimes a little rough. Cigarettes were less than $2 per packet; bananas $1 a bunch.

If you’re interested in more detail speak to me or check out www.timoradventures.com.au. The company is Melbourne based, and the proprietor/tour leader (Dave Carlos) has infectious enthusiasm for both the country and the ride. The Wikipedia entry on Timor Leste gives a good account of the country. While the DFAT SmartTraveller advice is “to exercise a high degree of caution”, I personally felt a lot safer wandering the streets of Dili than I did in Port Moresby.

It is worthy of mention that Dave is a talented musician (blues harmonica; recorder) and his impromptu performances at lunch stops etc, and the donation of instruments to an isolated school, generated considerable joy and goodwill.
Combined with a few days in Darwin, the tour was a great break from a bleak Canberra winter. Do it – you deserve it. You may even feel you did some good.
Stuart

July 2011 tour

Current Travel Warnings.

It is difficult for people considering travel to East Timor to find first hand, up to date accounts about East Timor to inform their travel plans.

We know this because of our work in promoting motorcycle tourism in East Timor. Our experience is Australians often have impressions of East Timor that are based on the events of the past.  Unfortunately the Department of Foreign Affairs and Trade’s (DFAT) current travel advice for East Timor reinforces this negative perception.  DFAT’s current advice for travellers to East Timor is to “Exercise a High Degree of Caution” due to the “uncertain security situation and the possibility of civil unrest”

To put this into perspective DFAT offers the same level of warning for various reasons to the following common tourist destinations that many travellers don’t think twice about visiting.

• · Thailand
• · India
• · Mexico
• · Morocco
• · Nepal
• · Peru
• · Philippines
• · Russia
• · Turkey
• · United Arab Emirates
• · Qatar
• · North Korea
• · Suva
• · Brunei
• · Costa Rica

Additionally many of these tourist destinations have the additional warning of the threat of terrorism, a situation that has never existed for East Timor

It is worth noting that Indonesia (Including Bali) has the next highest level of advice this being “Reconsider your need to travel” yet around 600,000 Australians travel there each year! (Source http://www.smh.com.au/travel/blogs/travellers-check/bali-too-much-of-a-good-thing-20110214-1asrh.html)

We understand why DFAT err s on the side of caution, however this warning added to the  weight of bad press East Timor has received over the years and  makes the job of this building this fledgling nation through tourism so much more difficult that it needs to be.

It is worth noting that neither the UK nor the USA have travel warnings for East Timor. The UK Travel advice can be seen at:

http://www.fco.gov.uk/en/travel-and-living-abroad/travel-advice-by-country?action=essentialTravelAll#essentialTravelAll

The USA travel advice can be seen at

http://travel.state.gov/travel/cis_pa_tw/tw/tw_1764.html

Other perspectives about traveling to East Timor.

As tourism operators we are particularly heartened when we see articles in the mainstream media that highlight the beauty and magic of East Timor.

Here are two links to recent articles.

http://www.jockcheetham.com/OneWorld/Timor_films.html

Jock Cheetham is a journalist with a long association with Timor.

AND

http://www.smh.com.au/travel/arrival-on-timor-time-20110518-1esu3.html

Patrick O’Neil, Sydney Morning Herald, May 2011

Here are some links we have found useful when researching East Timor for our motorbike tours to get the “warts and all” day to day picture of the country. Timor is like any nation, including Australia, there are a diversity of views and ideas but the overall sense of development and optimism about the future abounds through these news forums

http://www.etan.org/

http://www.laohamutuk.org/

http://www.presidencia.tl/eng/a.html

To further the aim of providing  balanced and current accounts of what to expect in East Timor today  we invite individuals and organisations with recent and if possible firsthand experience of life in East Timor to add their observations and comments. We would especially love to hear from East Timorese people.

Some observations people have already shared with us:

“I completely agree with you on how negatively  East Timor is portrayed through media and Foreign Offices travel advice. My job over the last 3 years has been exactly to change that negative interpretation.”

David Palazón, Project Coordinator, Designer / Filmmaker / Researcher  TATOLI BA KULTURA (Website to be launched in July 2011)

“Your comments about the Australian government’s travel advisory are well appreciated. Even though I am a US citizen, I subscribed to the Australian travel advisories when first planning a trip to Timor-Leste, and at this point I might as well unsubscribe. When traveling abroad, I have made it a point to look at a diversity of government sites, since in some cases there are political considerations that may influence the information.

When bringing students from the US, I usually look at the website of the US Department of State (state.gov) where there are currently neither travel alerts or travel warnings posted for Timor-Leste. Being of German extraction, I also check the website of the German Ministry of Foreign Affairs (whose travel information is, unfortunately, not available in English), where there are no warnings.”

Hinrich Kaiser PhD FLS:  Associate Professor, Department of Biology, Victor Valley College
Research Collaborator, National Museum of Natural History, Member, International Advisory Board, Foundation for Post-Conflict Development

I agree, the information on Smart Traveller is misleading – it implies that violence is potentially around every corner and that Timor is a volatile place, day in, day out. Those of us who have been there and spent time there know that it is not.

Some of the things that are challenging are no more challenging than the simple life, and unpredictable elements, and occasional discomfort,  that you have when you are camping. Gillian Howell

And finally a couple of our own observations

For the third year in a row In September over 300 mountain bike riders from Australia, the US and Canada are set to pit themselves against the gruelling roads of East Timor – They  must feel safe enough to make the journey.

A number of secondary colleges have friendship relationships with schools in East Timor and have organised study tours to East Timor. Further some elite private schools are opting to organise tours to East Timor for their year 12 students as an alternative to Schoolies week.  These school communities must feel their children will be safe.

A sure sign of a peaceful civilisation is that the Arts and a proud national culture are beginning to be showcased in East Timor, a few examples:

• · The research work of Taboli ba Kaltura that is working to develop an Academy of Creative Industries in East Timor. http://www.youtube.com/user/TatoliBaKultura
• · Arte Moris, an art school and community of artists  in Dili, is flourishing and has been in operation for many years. http://www.artemoris.tp/
• · The Government of Timor Leste exhibited at the World Expo in Shanghai in 2010
• · 2010 saw the introduction of the Timor Leste Underwater photographic competition. http://news.theage.com.au/breaking-news-world/east-timor-puts-underwater-wonders-on-show-20101021-16vvc.html
• · In 2010 a night art and craft night market  commenced on the edge of Dili at Areia Branca, a popular beach and tourist area
• · There has been protection and rebuilding of sacred houses and sites such as found at Mt Ramelau and Christo Rae

Please feel free to add you’re first hand and current observations.

Thankyou Shirley and David Carlos

Timor Adventures, Motorcycle tours in East Timor

The article went on to describe the tour but also some of the community work we are doing with a local school in Timor. Emma sent me an email to tell me all of this. Emma also asked about the community work and I explained that we had been supporting a school near Viqueque and were intending to buy some musical instruments. We had also set ourselves the goal this year of buying a motorcycle for a maternal child nurse at the Alola Foundation, a Timorese foundation that supports women.

Emma asked if she could do some fundraising for these items on the ship. The next day Emma emailed us to say that enough money had been raised for both the motorcycle and the musical instruments! We were overwhelmed by the generosity of the crew and passengers on the Aurora, people whom we had never met, in an ocean far away from Timor, it was truly wonderful!

Emma went on to explain that there was a request that we call the bike “Aurora”. We could not think of a better name!

We saw Emma a few days ago and we now have the funds. We will be in Timor on tour in July and will buy the instruments for the school and deliver them to Viqueque. In late July we will be running the first Women’s motorcycle tour of East Timor to celebrate 10 years of Alola. We feel that this will be a fitting time to hand over “Aurora Timor” as well as a photo of the Aurora Australis and its generous crew and passengers.

One day I hope that some of the generous people on that voyage of the Aurora Australis will come to Timor and visit “Aurora Timor”, the world’s first ice breaking motorcycle.

Our thanks to the Emma and the crew and passengers of the Aurora Australis, what a surprise and a wonderful gift!

Dave & Shirley

Traveling in East Timor on our adventure tours we use a bike that also fits the purpose, the Indonesian built 160cc Honda Mega Pro. They are light, robust, tolerate the local fuel, are easy to fix and parts are reasonably available. The roads are in poor condition across Timor and there are many farm animals wandering the streets so we tend to take it slow and enjoy the wonderful scenery. Under these conditions top speed is not really a consideration and luggage is carried in the support vehicle. The more I ride them in Timor the more I like these bikes. They are the motorcycle Swiss army knife of Timor.

I’d be interested to know what you think. Why not come to Timor and try one out?

These were the opening words to Bruce Brown’s 1971 movie “On any Sunday”. The movie is about motorcycles and the people who ride them.  It explores different types of motorcycle competition and follows the motorcycle careers of professional motorcycle competitors.
I’ve always liked motorcycles. I like the look of them, the experience of riding them and the things you could do with them. It was the idea that “A motorcycle is whatever you want to make it” in On Any Sunday that opened up the world of motorcycling to me.
Much of the movie centred on different forms of motorcycle competition such as road racing, flat track, trials, hill climb, motocross and enduro but what grabbed my attention were the scenes where people used a motorcycle just to have fun and explore new places. It was the idea of motorcycle touring that grabbed me.
Over the years I have done many motorcycle tours but the one that gave me the biggest thrill was touring East Timor. It was everything I was looking for in a motorcycle tour. It explored a place that not many people go to, I met new people, saw a different culture and I did it on a motorcycle.

To understand just what I am talking about take a look at some images:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/timoradventures/

To get some idea of why on any Sunday is such an important motorcycle film have a look at this video.

When I speak to people in Australia about our motorcycle tours in Timor Leste (East Timor) inevitably the issue of safety is raised and few see the country as a tourist destination.  This view is understandable given Timor Leste’s’ recent past, I’d like to set the record straight.

Timor Leste has loads to offer travellers interested in actively engaging with the country and those looking for more than homogenized resorts and theme parks.  Timor Leste has an untouched marine environment, incredibly beautiful coastlines and is bisected by two mountain ranges. The people of Timor Leste are open, friendly and incredibly generous of spirit.

But, self-directed travel is difficult in Timor Leste. The choice of transport is limited. At a cost you can hire a 4x wheel drive and driver, catch a local bus, microlet or aguna but they are crowded and slow, or you can try your luck and hire a motorcycle from Tiger Fuel.  Out of Dili accommodation can be limited and hard to find if you don’t know where to look.

If you like to trek then there are good options in Timor Leste.  John Bartlett has generously shared his knowledge of the country at his website.  Eco Discovery run guided trekking tours in collaboration with No Roads. These treks follow the path of the WW11 Sparrow force troops. There are also guided treks available through local guides at Mt Matebean.

If pounding up hills on impossible roads on a mountain bike is your thing then look out for the next Tour De Timor mountain bike race.

Or, if you are an active traveller but prefer to travel by car and are interested in learning about the country and sharing the experience in a small group then Intrepid run tours that may well be your thing.  

Just a short trip off the coast of Dili is Atuaro Island. Contact Tua Koin (Eco Village),  or Barry”s Place +670 7236084.  Compass Charters has recently started running a water taxi to the Island.

Of course I think you could just get a wiggle on, get yourself a motorbike licence, do lots of practise on bad roads and then join us on a Timor Adventure motorcycle tour. It really is the very best way to explore the country!

For some  images of this beautiful country see our Flickr gallery.

Some useful links

http://trekkingeasttimor.org

http://www.noroads.com.au

 http://www.tourdetimor.com

http://www.intrepidtravel.com

www.atauroisland.com

http://www.compassadventuretours.com

http://freeflowdiving.blogspot.com

http://www.ecodiscovery-easttimor.com

While its not hard to find Chega if you know where to look, its best to phone or email to make a booking and get some directions. :

http://www.cavr-timorleste.org/en/index.htm